Bangles for BIG Girls...Bangles for PETITE Girls.... Bangles for AVERAGE Girls!

Bangles for BIG Girls...Bangles for PETITE Girls.... Bangles for AVERAGE Girls!
Add a touch of colour to your outfits with these fun and colourful resin bangles, sized to suit girls of all sizes. Magnetic clasps make these ideal for girls who find it hard to get a traditional bangle on their wrist. And they're available in a range of colours with different focals. Check them out in the Resin Jewellery Shop!

Friday, March 16, 2018

Fabergé-Inspired Eggs for Easter

Decorative eggs made with epoxy resin clay and Swarovski resin crystals
Make a set of decorative eggs that not only represents their importance as symbols of new life for Easter but that can also be displayed throughout the year as a decor item in their own right. These jewelled eggs are inspired by the opulent Faberge eggs commissioned by the Russian Tsars. In place of the precious metal, enamel and jewels, these are made with EasySculpt epoxy resin clay and sparkly Swarovski crystals. This project also appeared in the Spring 2016 issue of Crafts Ideas Magazine.

Shopping List:

EnviroTex EasySculpt Epoxy Resin Clay
Colourants: Castin'Craft Resin Pigments and alcohol inks
2" polystyrene eggs
Embellie Gellie or Krystal Katana
2 x Swarovski flatback rivoli 2006 in colour of your choice
Swarovski flatback crystals SS8 in colours of your choice
G-S Hypo Cement
Talcum powder
Tissues and Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol) or baby wipes
Teflon craft sheet

Tools: clay blade, needle tool, timer,

How to Make Decorative Resin Clay Eggs

Tip: Before beginning to work with EasySculpt, put on a pair of close fitting gloves because resin clay is quite sticky when it's first mixed. It will be helpful to dust your gloves whenever the clay begins to stick to them.

Cover the Egg

Measure out and mix together equal parts of EasySculpt Clay following the manufacturer’s instructions. Set a timer for 25 minutes and leave the mixed clay to firm up because initially, it will be too sticky and stretchy to cover the egg.

Dust your gloves with powder and then flatten the clay into a circle. Place the center of the circle over the top of the egg. Work the clay down towards the bottom of the egg. Smooth out any folds that form and try to keep the clay an even thickness all the way around. Smooth out all the creases. There will probably be some pockets of air trapped under the clay. These can be pierced with the toothpick or needle tool. Smooth the clay with your finger until the hole disappears. Dust the Teflon sheet with a light sprinkling of powder. Balance the egg upright on the sheet and set the timer to 30 minutes. The clay will continue to firm up during this time.

The clay will still be quite soft and because it has some stretch in it, wrinkles will form in the bottom section of the egg. Use your gloved hand to smooth out the clay and set it aside. Set the timer for 10 minutes and then smooth again. Repeat again at 10 minute intervals until the egg is smooth. Roll the egg in your palms to give it a smooth all over finish.

Decorate the Egg

Apply a small amount of GS-Hypo Cement to the middle of the egg and attach a flat back Rivoli. Adhere another Rivoli on the opposite side of the egg in a slightly lower position.
Epoxy clay egg with Heliotrope Swarovski flatback rivoli.

Mix a small amount of EasySculpt. Roll it into three different sized balls. 
Different sized balls of mixed epoxy resin clay

Flatten one piece into a circle and add 2 drops of your choice of colour to the clay. Mix it in well. This will make the clay sticky and soft so powder your gloves as needed whilst you work the colour in. Clean your gloves with rubbing alcohol and a tissue to remove any residue. 
Epoxy Resin Clay being coloured with purple alcohol ink

Colour the other two balls with the other colourants you’ve chosen. Set the timer for 10 minutes to allow the clay to firm up a little before continuing. 
Note: You will notice that some of the alcohol ink colours will fade as they cure.
Balls of epoxy resin clay coloured with alcohol inks

Dust the Teflon sheet lightly with powder. Pull a small amount from one ball of clay and roll it on the sheet to form a snake 3mm (1/8”) thick and approximately 11.5cm (4 ½”) long.
Thin log of epoxy resin clay

Begin coiling the clay around the rivoli and then create an “S” curve down the side of the egg, finishing in an open circle. 
Epoxy resin clay coiled in a "S" shape around a Swarovski crystal on a clay covered egg

Make additional coils in the other colours and place them alongside the first coil, following the same curve. Create another “S” curves around the other rivoli.
Two colours of epoxy resin clay coiled around a Swarovski crystal in an "S" shape

Form a piece of clay into a small log about ¼” wide. Cut it into pieces 6mm (¼”) long.
Epoxy resin clay log being cut into small blocks

Cut some of these pieces in halves, some into quarters and some into smaller pieces.
Epoxy resin clay cut into small chunks

Roll each one into a ball so that you have a variety of graduating sizes. Set these aside to firm up.
Coloured epoxy resin clay rolled into graduating sized balls

Roll out another ¼” wide log and cut it into 6mm (¼”) lengths. Roll each into a ball and then taper one end to form a teardrop shape. Press the tip of the needle tool into the middle of each teardrop.
Coloured epoxy resin clay being formed into teardrop shapes
Teardrop shaped pieces of purple epoxy resin clay with an indentation down the centre.

Position these at an angle around the outside curves of the coils with the points facing in. Use adhesive to secure them if they have begun to cure. On some coils, attach graduating sized balls along the curve with the adhesive.
Epoxy resin clay teardrops along a coloured resin clay swirl

Position crystals along the middle coil in some of the “S” curves. If the clay is no longer sticky, use G-S Hypo Cement to attach them.
Epoxy resin clay covered egg being decorated with Swarovski crystals

Now that you've finished your decorative Easter egg, make a few in different colour combinations. They look stunning displayed in ornate egg stands. Or place them in a bowl on your coffee table and admire them all year 'round.

Like this project? Pin it for later.
Faberge inspired eggs covered with epoxy resin clay and decorated with Swarovski crystals

'Til next time.....


If you can't get enough of My Tutorials and you want even more inspiration, click here to find my books and printable pdfs

Thursday, March 8, 2018

Faux Egyptian Perfume Bottle Pendant

Is it an Egyptian Perfume bottle? 
Or a love potion?
Or maybe if you rub it, a Genie will appear and grant you 3 wishes! 
Faux Egyptian Perfume Bottle made with hollow glass bead and jewellery findings

No matter how you see it, this exotic bottle pendant is sure to bring you lots of admiring compliments.

To make one of your own, you'll need:
Mixed bead cap selection

Additional if using a European-style bead or other large-hole bead
  • 2mm - 3mm round spacer beads to fill the core

Tools: 2 pairs chain nose pliers; Round nose pliers; Flat nose pliers; Flush cutters;  Bead mat

Work Out Your Design

To design your bottle pendant, you'll need to sort through your bead cap mix and find combinations that work well together. Starting with the base, string on a 3mm bead cap or a round spacer bead. This will act as a stopper and make sure that the first bead cap doesn't fall off if it has a large hole.

Now, create the base and stem. 

Try different combinations of bead caps: some bell shaped, some flat, some cupped. Place multiple pieces together to create fancy shapes, or string some upside down to give them a different look.

Include the 6mm Swarovski crystal in the stem and add the feature bead so you get a really good idea of how it will look. Just keep trying them in different combinations until you like what you see. I eventually went with number 2 and added a filigree petal bead cap to the base to make it look more balanced.
Try out different combinations of bead caps

Now do the same thing with the top. String different combinations of bead caps to create a fancy-shaped top for your faux perfume bottle. Include the 4mm Swarovski crystal in the top as part of the lid. This time I went with the third combination.
Test out different combinations of bead caps

Once you're happy with the design, firm all the bead caps into position so they nestle inside each other and there's no play in them. Grip the head pin above the last bead/bead cap with chain nose pliers and bend it at a 90° angle.
Bend head pin above bead at a right angle

With round nose pliers, create a loop large enough to string your chain through. Finish with the tail of the head pin on the side so that you have a complete loop.
Form a loop in the head pin above the crystal

Hold the loop with one pair of pliers and grip the tail with the other pair. Wrap the tail neatly around the neck as many times as you can. This will keep the components firmly in position so that there is no wiggle room.
Wrap the neck of the loop with the tail of the head pin

Trim away the excess tail close to the neck.
Trim the excess from the head pin

Make the Chain

Decide how long you'd like the pendant to be and take away the clasp length from this measurement. I cut my chain to 50cm (19.75") and with the clasp and jump rings added, it measures 52cm (20.5") long.
Cut the snake chain to length

Place one end of the chain into the chain end. You can glue it into position if you wish, but this is optional. Suitable adhesives would be GS-Hypo Cement or super glue. Grip the loop and the very tip of the chain with the chain nose pliers. With flat nose pliers in your other hand, press one flap of the chain end over the chain. Do the same to the other side. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it's secure. If not, press the flaps down more firmly and then tug again.
Attach the chain end to the cut end of the snake chain

String the other end of the chain through the loop of the pendant. Attach a chain end to this end of the chain in the same way.

Connect the ends of the chain to the clasp with jump rings.
Connect the chain to the clasp with a jump ring

Now that you've completed your Faux Egyptian Perfume Bottle Pendant, wear it! And enjoy all the compliments you get.

Like this project? Pin it for later!
Faux Egyptian Perfume bottle pendant inspiration sheet
'Til next time........


If you can't get enough of My Tutorials and you want even more inspiration, click here to find my books, kits and printable pdfs

Friday, March 2, 2018

Kintsugi Inspired Plate Repair

Wabi-sabi – the art of finding and embracing the beauty in imperfection.
Kintsugi – the traditional Japanese technique of repairing broken pottery.

Repair a marble cake stand with this Kintsugi-inspired technique.

In our materialistic society, it's easy to throw away broken objects and replace them with something shiny and new. But Kintsugi allows us not only to restore usefulness to a broken object but also to find the beauty in that object’s life story, reminding us that nothing is permanent, perfect or complete. And with that in mind, I’m going to repair a broken marble cake stand and give it a new life and beauty of its own.

Traditionally, resin lacquer and gold powder are used to repair broken pottery, but in this modern take on the traditional method, I'll be using epoxy resin clay instead because it’s strong adhesive properties will hold up well on heavy marble.

Here's what you'll need to do a repair like this:
Watch the video or scroll down to see the step by step process.

How to do a Kintsugi-inspired Repair

Before you begin, lay out all the pieces to see how they fit together (and whether or not there are any pieces missing).

Tip:EasySculpt is quite sticky when you first mix it so make sure you put on your gloves before you begin. Give them a dusting with talcum powder whenever the clay begins to stick to them but take care not to over-powder them or it will be absorbed into the clay and dry it out.

Measure out equal quantities of Parts A and B. You won’t need very much.
Measure out equal quantities of Parts A and B of EasySculpt.

Mix the two parts together thoroughly, blending them until they uniform in colour.
Mix the EasySculpt until it is thoroughly blended.

Break off a small piece and flatten and lengthen it until it's the same length as the two pieces you want to join together. Press the clay onto one piece and spread it out to thinly and evenly across the break.
Apply the mixed EasySculpt clay to one edge of the broken plate

Align the two pieces and press them together firmly until the excess clay squeezes out.
Push the two broken pieces together until the excess EasySculpt squeezes out.

Scrape away the excess clay on the front as well as the back.
Scrape away any excess EasySculpt that has squeezed out of the plate join.

Run a pointed clay tool through the clay to create a channel which you will fill later. Leave the clay to dry overnight.
Create a channel in the join by running a pointed sculpting tool through the clay.

Next day, mix up another small batch of EasySculpt and press it into the channel to fill the gap. Smooth out the clay and wipe away the excess.
Fill the gap in the seam with more clay and smooth it out.

Whilst the clay is still moist, brush the Pearl Ex onto the clay. Leave it to cure until it has hardened.
Brush the Gold powder onto the clay.

Use the blade to scrape away any excess clay outside the seam. Take care not to scrape away any of the gold from the actual join.
Scrape away any clay overfill with a sharp blade.

Take a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits and do a final clean up of the edges. Keep rotating the cotton bud so that you are always working with a clean part of the swab. 
Clean up the edges with a cotton bud that has been dipped in methylated spirits.

Leave the completed repair to cure fully before using it.

No doubt this marble cake stand has past tales to tell of fancy afternoon teas and the delicious morsels it once held........ but here's looking to the future and all the sweet and savoury delicacies still to come.

Oh, and one thing to keep in mind: whilst this is a really sturdy repair, food should not come into direct contact with epoxy clay. I’ll be using a doiley between the marble and the food, which will also help prevent grease and oil from absorbing into the marble.

Collage of repaired platters using a Kintsugi-inspired technique.


If you can't get enough of My Tutorials and you want even more inspiration, click here to find my books and printable pdfs

Friday, September 15, 2017

Makeover Your Phone Case with Resin and Gold Leaf

Give Your Phone a Luxe Makeover with Gold Leaf.

This project is great if you want to personalise your mobile/cell phone or any other portable device. All you need is epoxy resin, gold leaf flakes and a clear plastic case to fit your device.

If you'd like to see this tutorial in action, head over to my YouTube channel


Gas lighter
Wooden stir stick
Utility knife
Protective gloves and eye wear

Measure out the resin in a 2:1 ratio.....

...... and mix it following the package instructions.

Apply the resin to the OUTSIDE of the case. It's easier to control when you drip the resin onto the case rather than pour it on. 

The side of the wooden stir stick will help you spread it out evenly. It’s OK if some of the resin goes over the edges because they’ll be covered later anyway.

Pass a gas lighter over the surface of the resin to pop any bubbles. It’s important to keep the flame moving at all times.

Now comes the fun bit: sprinkling the gold leaf flakes onto the resin. Sprinkle them from a height to distribute them evenly. For a luxe look, sprinkle on a lot of flakes but if you want to see more of the phone case through the resin, then go lightly.

Whilst the resin is still liquid, apply another layer on top of the gold leaf. The flakes will move about a bit and some of the resin will flow over the sides but you can smooth the edges out with the wooden stir stick. Press down any bits that are sticking up with the stir stick. Once the resin stops spilling, move the phone case to a clean spot with gloved hands. Now it’s time to leave the resin to gel. This usually takes a few hours.

Mix up another batch of resin and spread it across the surface. Once it stops pooling over the edge, move it to a clean spot on your work space and leave it to cure overnight.

Trim away any overpour on the edges with a utility knife. If there are any drips on the inside of the case, remove those too so that the case fits snugly.

Now your luxe gold metal leaf case is ready to snap into place.

Well that was pretty easy!

If you're one of those folks who tends to drop their phone a lot, then this case is probably not the best choice for you. But having said that, it will take a fair bit of knocking around. If you get scratches on the surface, you can just add another coat of resin and they'll disappear!

Step by step project sheet for how to makeover your phonecase with resin and gold leaf.

'Til next time......


If you can't get enough of My Tutorials and you want even more inspiration, click here to find my books and printable pdfs

Friday, September 8, 2017

Silicone Putty Mold Making - Mermaid's Tail Cupcakes

What little girl who would be thrilled to have mermaid cupcakes for her birthday party? Or for that matter, what big girl wouldn't want mermaid cupcakes? After all, inside every big girl is a little girl at heart! So I'm decorating a batch of these for my Mum's upcoming birthday celebration. But to start, we need to make a mould and I found the perfect item to make one from whilst I was wandering through the toy aisle recently. So, let's get started.

Here's what you'll need to make your own:

Make the Mermaid's Tail Mould

Measure out equal parts of Parts A and B of the Silicone Putty. To work out how much you need, I take one part and flatten it out into an oval shape about 6mm (1/4") thick. It should be at least half the length of the mermaid's tail. Roll that into a ball and then take the same amount of the other part.

Now you have to work quickly as the silicone putty sets quite quickly. Blend the two parts together until there are no streaks and the silicone is a uniform colour.

Shape the mixed putty into an a rough oval shape, wider at one end than at the other. Press the mermaid's tail into silicone and pull the walls up and over a bit to cup the tail slightly. Make sure the mould is at least 6mm (1/4") thick.

After about 25 minutes, the silicone should be set. To test it, press your nail into the the silicone. If it doesn't leave an indentation, then it's ready. If it makes an impression, leave it a little longer.

To demould, just peel the silicone away on all sides.

Cast the Mermaid's Tails

Take a piece of gum paste and flatten it. Press this into the fluke area and then work it down from the tail area towards the body. Keep working it along the tail, smoothing it out as you go. You don't need to fill the whole tail but it needs to be long enough to push some of it into the frosting to help it stand up.

I made mine about half the length of the tail.

Remove the tail gently from the mould.

Set the tails aside to dry for several hours. If the weather is cold or humid, you may need to leave them overnight.

Paint the tail with pastel pink edible paint.

Then dust a little gold lustre dust to highlight the tail and scales.

Add some pink lustre dust to give the tail a pearly look.

Brush on some blue edible glitter on the tail whilst the paint is still wet.

And finally, sprinkle the gold disco dust across the fluke. Once the paint is dry, you can assemble the cupcakes.

Decorate the cupcakes with a few sprinkles or edible glitter and push the tail into the top of the frosting. Because we're using gum paste rather than modelling fondant, you might need to leave them for a couple of days to firm up before placing them in the frosting.

These are perfect for so many different party themes: By the Sea, Little Mermaid, Hawaiian, Tropical, Summer, to name a few.

Not got little girls in your household? No worries. Paint them black and white and turn them into whale's tails or paint them silver and turn them into fish instead and satisfy the fishermen in your life!

Just one last thing before I go.... always keep your food moulds for food only. I seal mine in a ziplock bag marked "food stuffs" so that I don't get them mixed up with the moulds I use for resin.

'Til next time.....


If you can't get enough of My Tutorials and you want even more inspiration, click here to find my books and printable pdfs


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